Bombay Beach – A Paradise Lost

Today’s road trip took us to Bombay Beach, California, a forgotten but formerly famous resort town on the shores of the Salton Sea. People might recognize it resembles Sandy Shores from the video game Grand Theft Auto V.

An Accidental Lake

The Salton Sea came into existence purely by accident. In an attempt to bring irrigation to the Salton Sink and Imperial Valley, engineers created irrigation channels to connect the valley to the Colorado River. During heavy flooding on the river, the canals became overwhelmed and failed spectacularly, draining all of the river’s floodwaters into the Salton Sink. As the Salton Sink lies below seal level with no outlet, the Salton Sink filled with water and became the Salton Sea.

A Paradise is Born

The newly formed lake became an instant attraction. Visitors appreciated its calm and warm waters that were ideal for recreation and fishing. Resorts, hotels, and marinas sprung up along its shores, attracting tourists, celebrities, and bringing new residents to the previously deserted valley. Bombay Beach was such a resort town. It became a celebrity hotspot, featuring performances by Frank Sinatra or the Beach Boys.

A Paradise Lost

Unfortunately, the Salton Sea proved to be more like a giant puddle than a lake. With the construction of the Hoover Dam, periodic flooding that brought fresh water to the valley ended and the Salton Sean began to dry up. The freshwater lake became increasingly saline to the point that most fish could no longer survive. Toxic agricultural runoff, the lake’s main water source, only hastened this process. The smell of dying fish became unbearable, scaring away vacationers and shutting down all the resorts. Most residents left while some continued to brave the increasingly inhospitable conditions.

Bombay Beach Today

Today, the town resembles little of its glamorous past. The stench of the dying lake is omnipresent. Periodic dust storms pick up heavy metals and pesticides from the exposed lakebed and deposit them in the valley. Salt encrusts abandoned buildings. The resorts and marinas lie in ruins. There are no stores, save for one small general store. Limited services are available in nearby Niland. The residents did not seem to particularly appreciate visitors. What was once a tourist destination is now a wasteland for people who choose to live away from society. They brave inhospitable and unhealthy living conditions until California becomes serious about restoring the lake.

Maybe Bring Your Passport

Bombay Beach borders a customs and immigration enforcement area. There is a permanent immigration checkpoint to the south of it on Route 111. Visitors to the nearby Salvation Mountain should keep that in mind and be ready to answer questions about their citizenship and immigration status. Noncitizens must carry their passport or permanent resident card, so do not leave those at the hotel.